Berliner Tageszeitung - London Fashion Week: Burberry embraces escape to the countryside

Even the British luxury house sought to ditch the gloom with a show themed around a countryside getaway, transporting its guests to the cozy, old-fashioned charm of a British country house.

Creative director Daniel Lee, who joined Burberry a little over two years ago, was "inspired by the incredible British interiors", and luxurious fabrics like velvet were used in the famous trench coat, tailored suits and flowing dresses.

Quilted jackets and skirts covered in florals blended into the tapestries draped onto the white pillars of the Tate Britain, while other styles included oversized knit sweaters, perfect for an evening by the fire.

The somber hues, with flashes of bright orange, yellow or blue, were inspired by Lee's time "in autumn walking in nature, in Yorkshire," the 39-year-old English designer told reporters after the show.

Lee has tried to give the troubled British house a facelift while remaining true to its traditional, luxury roots, exemplified in his fifth and latest collection.

Alongside former supermodel Naomi Campbell, the runway featured actors who have starred in royal dramas "The Crown" and "Downtown Abbey" as well as Regency-era drama "Bridgerton", as Burberry tried to slot itself into the roster of traditional storylines seeing a popular revival.

The fashion giant famed for its trench coats and signature tartan print is the subject of rumours about the departure of its creative director, who could be replaced by English designer Kim Jones.

However, these were brushed off by Lee. "I love the brand, it's an incredible brand. It's really an honour to work for Burberry," he said.

- 'Improving' -

Burberry, which has been experiencing months of financial difficulty, began an "emergency" refocusing on its iconic products such as its trademark trench coat late last year in a bid to stave off falling sales.

Chief Executive Joshua Schulman was brought in last July and tasked with turning around Burberry's fortunes.

"Josh has been here for just over six months, and things are going well, things are definitely improving," said Lee. "I think we're all in a really positive place."

Brands across London Fashion Week and the world are grappling with a reduced appetite for luxury products.

Still, there was room for spectacle across the four days -- from a captivating monologue by Florence Pugh opening a "rebellious" Harris Reed catwalk to master milliner Stephen Jones flexing his muscles with hats made out of chocolate, satin and even glass.

On the catwalks, 1980's-inspired bubble skirts, fabrics from seersucker to sheer, plenty of corsets and lingerie, tailoring and streetwear were paraded down dramatic sets dotted around London.

- Slipping behind -

Despite the presence of renowned designers such as Simone Rocha and Richard Quinn, and promising stylists such as S.S. Daley and Harris Reed, several fashion experts said London Fashion Week was falling further behind Paris and New York every year.

"There is a bit of a damp spirit, an empty feeling, to the London schedule at the moment," Daley told The Guardian newspaper before his show.

Caroline Rush, the director of the British Fashion Council which organises London Fashion Week, acknowledged it was "a particularly challenging time" for British brands.

Brands have been dealt several blows following the pandemic, such as Brexit and last year's closure of the global luxury online platform Matches Fashion.

This year's event is almost a day shorter than the previous Autumn-Winter 2024 fashion week, with several designers opting for a dinner or presentation instead of a pricier runway show.

Buyers and influencers such as Beka Gvishiani of Style Not Com, an Instagram account that charts fashion news, did not make the trip, while Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson was also absent with his brand JW Anderson.

Rush, who is organising her last London Fashion Week, said the event remains "so relevant because ... we have so many small independent businesses, they need a platform to be able to show to reach global audiences."

W. Winogradow--BTZ